Baden

Maybe I'm biased as Baden was the first town I lived in when I came to Switzerland, but I think it's lovely.

As you can see, it is picture-postcard lovely, and has a beautiful old town with buildings dating back to the 14th century.

Of course, the internals have been modernised, the Swiss have a great, non-sentimental way about doing that, but from outside they are unbelievably authentic.

Starting with the covered wooden bridge (now you know where Madison County got the idea from) the walk up the hill towards the centre takes you past some unlikely, and thriving shops.

My favourite used to be the violin maker, but he became so successful he's moved. So it's best just to wander around and see for yourself.

Many of the shops sell child-related (unusual toys, clothes etc) so it can be a fun place to go as a family.

If the town hall is open, try to get in and have a look at the walls and ceilings. Quite outstanding.

Should you go late in the evening, there is a casino, not Las Vegas style, but quite popular these days. I tend to lose, so stay away, apart from eating in the excellent restaurant there. Sunday brunch is a favorite, especially in summer when you can sit outside.

Take your swimming gear in winter, the thermal baths, after which the town was named, are still very much the place to visit. Very relaxing in winter, but don't except to be able to swim laps. Its more about having jets of water aimed at those painful joints that you got while walking along the Lägern.

Photo: Adrian Vogt

Appenzell - Silversterklausen

We've had quite a lot of winter sports recently on TST, so here's a traditional custom to be getting on with.

To be honest, the more I write about this country, the more I am convinced it's a great (and diverse) place to live or visit.

Silvesterklausen takes place in Appenzell, particularly in the communes of Urnäsch, Schönengrund, Schwellbrunn, Waldstatt, Herisau, Hundwil, Stein, and Teufen.

Apparently (and I may well be wrong on this!) the idea is to distinguish between different types of Santa Claus - beautiful ones, ugly ones and the natural  or forest ones. And I thought there was only the one in the Coca-Cola sponsored suit...

The Chläuse (or Klause) are apparently based on a demonic cult that apparently merged with vegetation and fertility cults near Urnäsch, situated in the valley below Schwägalp.

It's now become more widespread (as listed above) and Old New Year's Eve, January 13, is the main cause for celebration. Something to do with the Julian calendar change apparently; Appenzell isn't known for being progressive, women there have only had the vote for nearly 40 years...

If you'd like to get involved, or at least see strange men and boys dressed in costumes, pop along to one of the villages on 13 January; Urnäsch probably being the place to be.

The action starts at dawn, but there'll be something to see all day.

See http://www.urnaesch-tourismus.ch/e/brauchtum/alter_silvester.htm for a better explanation of what it's all about!

All Downhill from Here

While the rest of Europe were busy shooting at, and dropping bombs on, each other, the neutral Swiss simply got on with life and building one of the most impressive roads in Europe.

The Susten pass was built between 1938 and 1945, linking the cantons of Uri and Bern, running from Wassen to Innertkirchen. Although I guess if you live in Bern, that should probably be the other way around.

Which makes me think I've never driven it that way, so maybe there's a trip coming on. It's been the subject of some serious roadworks over the past few years, and now has a very good surface, ideal for either cars or bikes.

And if you don't feel like driving, you can always take the bus. Public transport is renowned for its quality, and the Postbus is a familiar sight in the mountains. Buses run about every two hours, and link up with trains at both ends. Remember, this is Switzerland, so should a delay occur, one will wait for the other.

Probably the most impressive part of the journey is the moment when you come round a corner to discover a glacier coming the other way. Fortunately they don't move too quickly, so if you do hit it, it'll be your fault.

The Steingletscher is receding slightly these days but before you blame global warming or climate change, I think I should point out that according to a survey carried out by the most prestigious of Swiss Universities, there is more ice around now than there was 2,000 years ago.


Photo credit: Wikipedia

Susten Pass

While the rest of Europe were busy shooting at, and dropping bombs on, each other, the neutral Swiss simply got on with life and building one of the most impressive roads in Europe.

The Susten pass was built between 1938 and 1945, linking the cantons of Uri and Bern, running from Wassen to Innertkirchen. Although I guess if you live in Bern, that should probably be the other way around.

Which makes me think I've never driven it that way, so maybe there's a trip coming on. It's been the subject of some serious roadworks over the past few years, and now has a very good surface, ideal for either cars or bikes.

And if you don't feel like driving, you can always take the bus. Public transport is renowned for its quality, and the Postbus is a familiar sight in the mountains. Buses run about every two hours, and link up with trains at both ends. Remember, this is Switzerland, so should a delay occur, one will wait for the other.

Probably the most impressive part of the journey is the moment when you come round a corner to discover a glacier coming the other way. Fortunately they don't move too quickly, so if you do hit it, it'll be your fault.

The Steingletscher is receding slightly these days but before you blame global warming or climate change, I think I should point out that according to a survey carried out by the most prestigious of Swiss Universities, there is more ice around now than there was 2,000 years ago.


Photo credit: Wikipedia